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PS2/PS3

This do-it-yourself GameCube mod-chip is a great modification for your
Nintendo GameCube. The mod-chip allows your GameCube to read burned backups of games, so your original games can be preserved by protecting them from scratches. This  provides a detailed tutorial on the building, flashing (programming), and installation of the XenoGC 2.0 mod-chip clone as well as advice on adjusting the laser potentiometer to read burned backups of games.

An Atmel Atmega8L-8PU AVR is used to communicate with the GameCube's disk drive's debug port using SPI to bypass the drive’s security by entering a debug mode. The firmware for this mod-chip entitled “XenoGC 2.0” was released as open source for the public domain in 2011.

For more information regarding the details of the XenoGC 2.0 source code and original mod-chip, visit:

  • The XenoGC Clone wiki: Here or Here

  • The GC-Forever forums’ original posting of the open source code: Here or Here

Disclaimer: This project includes disassembly of your GameCube and its disc drive. Improper adjustment of the laser potentiometer can lead to a decrease in the life of the laser. Piracy is illegal; do NOT illegally download copyrighted games.

The video above showcases a successful test of the mod-chip.

Last updated February, 2016.

​

There are optional LEDs used on this
mod-chip to indicate whether the chip is communicating with the disc drive's service serial port correctly. Green means it is operating correctly; red means there is an error. They can be removed from the circuit, along with the resistors in series with them when the chip is installed into the GameCube, or they can be left in and located discretely on the back of the GameCube.

Shown in the images are schematics of the mod-chip with the required parts included. There are two versions: one with an ISP header (the connectors used for flashing the firmware onto the mod-chip) and one without (the “economy” version). The ISP header version will be built on a breadboard for flashing then replaced with the economy version before being installed into the GameCube.

Step 1

The required parts are:

  • 1 GameCube with cables and controller

  • 1 Burned backup of a GameCube game

  • 1 Atmel Atmega8L-8PU

  • 1 0.1μF ceramic capacitor

  • 2 1KΩ resistors

  • 2 330Ω resistors

  • 1 100Ω resistor

  • 1 red LED

  • 1 green LED

  • 1 Breadboard (for flashing and testing the mod-chip)

  • 1 AVR ISP programmer or an Arduino and USB cable to use in place of a programmer

  • 1 computer for flashing the mod-chip

  • 22 AWG wire for use with the breadboard

  • 30 AWG wire (wire wrap) for making connections on the GameCube

  • 1 set of wire strippers

  • 1 soldering iron with solder

  • 1 multi-meter capable of reading impedance

  • Some electrical tape and double sided tape

  • 1 small philips screwdriver

  • 1 “Gamebit” screwdriver

If a Gamebit screwdriver is not available, a plastic Bic pen and a lighter or pocket torch can be used to make one as explained in step 5.

Required software:

​

Step 2 Preparing The Atmega8 For Flashing

Construct the circuit shown on the breadboard using 22 AWG wire for connections. However, do not connect the wires and resistors going to the GameCube (that means that R4 and R5 are not used). Connect the AVR ISP programmer to the ISP header in the circuit (J1). If you don't have an AVR ISP programmer, use an Arduino with a USB cable and follow the connection table below. Example code is included in the Arduino IDE that will allow the Arduino to act as a serial AVR ISP programmer.

Be sure to supply the breadboard with power and ground from the AVR ISP programmer or Arduino.

This is the connection table from the ArduinoISP example:

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// pin name: not-mega: mega(1280 and 2560) // slave reset: 10: 53 // MOSI: 11: 51 // MISO: 12: 50 // SCK: 13: 52 // // Put an LED (with resistor) on the following pins: // 9: Heartbeat - shows the programmer is running // 8: Error - Lights up if something goes wrong (use red if that makes sense) // 7: Programming - In communication with the slave

 

Step 3: Flashing the Atmega8

​

In order to flash (program) the Atmega8 for the mod-chip, WinAVR must be installed (avrdude for Linux).

Extract the included file entitled ‘XenoGC-Source.zip’ and extract it’s content to a directory that is easy to navigate to in a command prompt. For example, use the root of your hard drive: ‘C:\’.

Be sure that the ISP programmer or Arduino is properly wired to the Atmega8 via the breadboard. Attach the programmer or Arduino to the computer’s USB port.

From a console (in Windows: press windows + R on the keyboard, type ‘cmd’, and
press enter), type the following command (depending on the programmer being used):

For Arduino as programmer:

avrdude -p m8 -b 19200 –B 4 -c avrisp -P COM1

Replace COM1 with the COM port your Arduino is associated with if necessary.

For an AVR ISP programmer, enter the necessary programmer type immediately after the ‘-c’ argument of the command. The ‘-b 19200’ and ‘-P COM1’ is not necessary for AVR ISP programmers other than serial based ones such as the Arduino. For example, using a USBasp ISP programmer, the command would be:

avrdude –p m8 –B 4 –c usbasp

Refer to the avrdude website for instructions on using your specific party ISP AVR programmer. https://web.archive.org/web/20160129180324/http://...

If the connection was successful, avrdude should echo the device signature of the Atmega8. The chip is now ready for flashing.

From the same console, change directory to the location of XenoAT.1.05.hex (included in zip file). Next, type the following command into the console:

For Arduino as programmer:

avrdude -p m8 -b 19200 -c avrisp -P COM1 -v -U flash:w:XenoAT.1.05.hex:i

For USBasp ISP programmer:

avrdude –p m8 –B 4 –c usbasp -v -U flash:w:XenoAT.1.05.hex:i

Avrdude will confirm that the chip was flashed successfully. Next, set the fuse bits with the following command:

For Arduino:

avrdude -p m8 -b 19200 -c avrisp -P COM1 -v -U lfuse:w:0xC4:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m

For USBasp ISP programmer:

avrdude –p m8 –B 4 –c usbasp -v -U lfuse:w:0xC4:m -U

This command configures the microcontroller (Atmega8) to internally oscillate at 8Mhz, rather than the default 1Mhz.

The mod-chip now is ready for construction.   

​

Step 4: Building The Chip

There are a multiple methods that may be implemented to construct the mod-chip; a PCB can be made and the components soldered to it, components can be soldered to a perf-board, or components can be connected via the point-to-point soldering method. The point-to-point soldering method is explained in this instructable.

The green and red LEDs and corresponding resistors are optional. They are used to show that the chip is operational. When the disc drive begins to read a disc, the red LED will be illuminated. If the chip communicates with the drive correctly, the red LED will go out and the green one will light up. If the LEDs are to be installed, a place to mount them on the GameCube is required. Taping the LEDs in the rear vent as shown in the video at the intro and final steps is suggested.

For this GameCube, the status LEDs and corresponding resistors are not used.

To solder the components using the point-to-point method, first wrap the leads of the 1KΩ resistor around pin one and the VCC pin of the Atmega8. Solder the leads, then cut off the excess leads of the resistor. Next, use a piece of wire or the trimmings of the resistor leads to solder a jumper between the AGND and GND pins using the same method used on the resistor. Then wrap, solder, and trim the excess leads of the 0.1μF capacitor to the GND and VCC pins of the Atmega8 as shown in the image. Lastly, strip and solder 4 to 5 inch long 30 AWG wire to pins 15, 17, 18, and 19 as well as the VCC and GND pins of the Atmega8 as shown in the image. Strip the other ends of the wires back about 1/8 of an inch.

​

Step 5: Opening the GameCube

To disassemble the GameCube, turn the GameCube upside down to reveal four screws: one in each corner. Notice that they are "game bit" screws. If a game bit screwdriver is available, remove the four screws and skip ahead to the next step.

If a game bit screw driver is not available, use a Bic pen by pulling it apart, removing the ink tip from the plastic tip, and replacing the plastic tip. Then melt the plastic tip with the lighter. Do not burn the plastic or let it ignite. Once the plastic tip is soft looking, firmly insert it into the screw hole against the screw head. Let it cool before removing it. After letting the plastic cool completely, the tip will be solid again. It should have the impression of the screw head and will be able to remove the screws. If it becomes stripped while screwing/unscrewing, re-melt the plastic by repeating this step. 

Once the four screws beneath are removed, flip the GameCube over and remove the top by carefully lifting it straight up. Unsnap the back panel where the AV out and power jack are by prying the clips shown in the image. Unsnap the front faceplate using the same technique and carefully disconnect its ribbon cable. Using the Philips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the metal tabs on top of the memory card slots. Unplug, unscrew, and remove the fan/power-button assembly and remove the screws beneath it. Remove the rest of the screws shown in the following pictures.

After all the necessary screws have been removed, the top half of the GameCube can be lifted straight up to disconnect it from the bottom half. There will be a little resistance due to the disc drive connector.

Turn the top half upside-down and take out the six screws holding the cover down.

We now have access to the disc drive's debug port.

​

Step 6: Connecting the Mod-Chip

To connect the mod-chip to the GameCube, use the soldering iron to tin the six pads on the disc drive’s debug port with a small amount of solder. Carefully solder the wires from the constructed mod-chip according to the schematic. Ensure that no connections have been bridged by checking for continuity between adjacent pads by using the multi-meter in continuity mode. Next, use the electrical tape to hold the mod-chip’s wires in place to prevent the wires from being disconnected from the debug port’s pads. The mod-chip is now connected to the GameCube.

​

Step 7: Adjusting the Laser Potentiometer

Temporarily reattach the disc drive without screwing anything together. Allow the mod-chip to hang from the GameCube without its pins shorting against the GameCube’s chassis. Also, reattach the fan and power switch assembly and front panel. Connect the GameCube’s power supply, AV cable, and a controller. Insert a burned backup of a game. While holding down the "lid open" switches on the rear-right corner of the GameCube, power on the console and watch as the drive attempts to read the disc. If the drive fails to read the disc, it is because the laser is adjusted to use minimal power while still able to read GameCube discs. Due to variations in the burned discs from the licensed Nintendo game discs, the laser struggles to properly read the disc. The laser can be adjusted via the laser potentiometer or "pot".

WARNING: Over adjustment can occur in driving the laser with too much power. This can lead to a lower lifespan of the laser. If you are unsure about adjusting laser pots or have not adjusted laser pots before, it is recommended that research on GameCube laser pot adjustments is done before attempting this.

Power off and disassemble the GameCube until the laser potentiometer is exposed. The laser pot is located to the left of the disc drive’s debug port. Using the multi-meter in impedance mode, measure the set value of the laser pot by touching one lead against the top pin and the other to the bottom left pin as shown in the image. Typical values for the laser pot are around 200 Ohms, but it varies for each GameCube. Use a small screwdriver to lower the resistance by 10 Ohm increments, reassembling the GameCube just enough to test out the drive each time. Very small increments in pot adjustment will lead to vary large changes in resistance, so it helps to have a steady hand.

After the GameCube accepts the disc, test it out again by powering the GameCube on and off. Once the GameCube is consistently accepting the disc, the laser potentiometer will not require any further adjustment.

​

Step 8: Mounting the Chip

Wrap the mod-chip’s wires in tape every 1 ½ inches to keep them tidy. Then bend the wires into the shape shown in the image. Reattach and screw together the bottom panel of the disc drive assembly. Then cover the pins of the chip that make contact with the ribbon cable with electrical tape to avoid wearing through the insulation. Mount the chip to the panel with double sided tape. The mod-chip is now mounted to the GameCube.

​

Step 10: Customization and Reassembly

An optional modification to do before the GameCube is assembled is to replace the original orange power indicator for one of a different color. The owner of this GameCube wanted a blue LED. The larger LED required more current than the original one, so the 330 Ohm resistor was replaced with a 100 Ohm resistor.

Reverse the dis-assembly process to assemble the GameCube.

Never worry about scratching your priceless collection of GameCube games ever again!

​

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Buy a Mcboot Card extremely cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112169365712?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Now lets start off by telling you what you'll need to have to safely as possible hack your ps3. At the time I'm writing this you'll need a PS3 with 3.55 firmware or lower.

It doesn't matter if its a fat or slim or the model..... that's the best thing about doing it this way (what I call the safe way).

You will also need a USB thumb drive or external drive. Both have to be formatted to fat32 for the PS3 to read them.

Also download and install Winrar - http://www.win-rar.com/start.html?&L=0 Its a lot like Winzip but better and most file on the Internet use this file extension.

OK first to keep things organized I want you to create a folder on your desktop called PS3 Hack.

Then inside that folder create two other folders - Custom Firmware, Official Firmware.

That wasn't hard was it? OK now your going to download 3.55 PS3 firmware-  http://www.mediafire.com/file/oz881vwv3awl0dn/PS3UPDAT.PUP

Save that file in your "Official Firmware" folder.

Now if you have installed WinRar, right click on the file and click extract here. Then delete the PS3_355_FW_UPDATE.RAR. 

Next your going to download Kmeaws Custom Firmware - http://ps3.brewology.com/downloads/download.php?id=13258&mcid=4

Save the file in your "Kmeaw Custom Firmware" folder.

Do the same thing as before and right click on the file and click extract here. Also as before delete the PS3_355_KMEAW_CFW.RAR. 

OK you now have all the files you'll need to hack your PS3! The next part is not as hard as you think and well worth it in the end! Click the Install Custom Firmware link in the Right menu!

​

​

The first thing you'll need to do is get your USB drive or External drive and plug it into your computer.

Which every one you have, format it to fat32. If you need any information on this subject please do a search on Google, Im not about to teach you how to use your computer!

Now that you have formated the drive you need to make a few folders. First make a folder named PS3 (please name folder exactly as listed).
Then inside that folder make another folder called UPDATE.

If your already on firmware 3.55 skip to the next step.

OK first were going to take the file (just the file) from your Offical Firmware folder and place it in the UPDATE folder you just made on your drive.

Next make sure your PS3 is off and you plug your drive into your PS3.

Now your going to put your PS3 in recovery mode.
To do this your going to hold down the PS3 power button until it turns on then off.

Next you going to hold the power button down again till you hear one beep followed by two quick beeps, let go of power button.

If your having any problems with this you can Youtube PS3 Recovery Mode, there's lots of video on how to do.

The PS3 will now ask you to plug in a controller with its USB cable (do that). Now choose update from the menu. Your PS3 will ask you to hit select and start and it will search for the update file (once again make sure your drive connected to your PS3!). It will go through and install 3.55 and reboot itself.

On to the next part! Remove your drive from your PS3 and reconnect to your computer. Delete the file in the UPDATE folder and replace it with the file (just the dam file!) from your Kmeaw Custom Firmware folder. Now plug your drive in again to your PS3 and install the file from recovery mode the exact same way we just did in the step before.

Now the PS3 will reboot itself just like the last time.

Thats it you did it! You have become less of a noob in the last 15mins, and are ready to install backup managers to play your games and ftp server for your PS3.

Also having a good file splitter is good as well (but we'll get into that in the next chapter!).

 

Now let's download a homebrew. Rogero Manager- http://store.brewology.com/ahomebrew.php?brewid=17

​


First thing to do is delete all the folders and files off your USB or External drive. Now homebrew will be in a .pkg format and goes on the root of your drive.
Root mean you make no folder it just goes straight onto your drive. Now of course your going to want to play your "legally backed up games".

​

Now plug your drive into your PS3 and turn on if not already. Go to the Game tab in the PS3 menu and go down to Install Packages Files folder and select it.

You will see a list of the .pkg files you just put on your drive.

Select which ever one and follow the instruction given to install the program.

After it install you will have a icon under your Game tab. Example if you install Gaia you will now have a Gaia Manager icon under your Games tab.

Do the same for any other homebrew you downloaded and it all show up under Game tab.



Well that it! If you want to learn how to use these programs just read the threads given in the links above there pretty easy.

As mention this guide is not to show you how to play games, but get you up and running so you can along with other homebrew.

I will say that since as of right now PS3 can only read fat32 so you will need a file splitter, because if a game has one file that over 4 gigs (the game could be 20 gigs as long as it doesn't have a file 4 gigs or over) it wont fit on your external drive.

All the file splitter does is find the file splits in a format that all backup manager can read.  File Splitter-

http://karmian.org/projects/ps3splitter/download

Xbox
Xbox 360

Requirements for this method of Softmod:
 

  • Original Xbox and controller

  • Old version of Xplorer360 and Softmod Installer Deluxe 5.11 Final DOWNLOAD (virus scans at bottom of post one thing got flagged but its a false positive)

  • One of the 3 following NTSC xbox games (must be black label, not platinum hits): Splinter Cell (PAL can also work this game), Agent 007 Under Fire, or Mech Assault with disc serial: MS02301L

  • An xbox to female USB cable (cost about 3 dollars from China, see picture below)

  • A compatible USB or device (See list below) NOTE: A lot of the USB sticks are difficult to find nowadays.

                                                                                              List:

  • Apple iPod Nano 2gb 2nd Gen: Believe it or not, this is actually what I used to soft-mod my Original Xbox. It should be noted that once you plug in the iPod, the xbox formats it to have 50000+ blocks of storage. You'll need to restore the iPod using a PC after using it for this mod.

  • 3System USB Flash Disk USB Drive 32 MB (1998 blocks)

  • A-DATA 2GB FLASH DRIVE PD2-G20 (50000+ blocks)

  • A-DATA 2GB FLASH DRIVE PD9 Series (50000+ blocks)

  • Aigo 128MB USB Memory Stick (7997 blocks)

  • Apacer 256Mb USB Key (Paradigit) HANDY STENO 2.0

  • AVB 64 MB USB 1.1 Mobile Drive (4030 blocks, ID 0ea0:6803)

  • Axine 32Mb USB Memory Stick (2042 blocks) Works good

  • Belkin 32MB USB Memory Stick

  • Belkin 128MB USB Flash Drive (7998 blocks)
    Windows sees it as "3System USB Flash Drive"

  • Captiva USB BAR 128 MB (7989 blocks)

  • Centrios DSC-314 without a SD card (935 blocks)

  • Checkpoint Software 64 MB USB-Stick (ID 0204:6025) 
    (identified as "USB Flash Disk")

  • Commodore Floppy -on- stick 128MB (7989 blocks)

  • COMSOL 16MB

  • COMSOL 128MB

  • CnMemory 64MB USB1.1 (iCreate Technologies Corp., use "MechInstaller-1.0-FATX-8MB-to-32MB.img", 4014 blocks)

  • CnMemory 128MB USB2.0

  • CompUSA 128MB USB 2.0 SKU: 332150

  • Corsair Flash Voyager (512 MB)

  • Corsair Flash Voyager (1 GB)
    had to low level format first

  • Creative Labs Muvo MP3 Player 32MB (1918 blocks)

  • Creative Labs Nomad Muvo MP3 Player 128MB (7997 blocks)
    *Once used this is unreadable in a standard pc as anything other than a 16.7kb memory stick*

  • Creative Labs MuVo TX FM MP3 Player 128MB 
    (VID_041E&PID_412O must be reformatted back to FAT32 afterwards to work again!)

  • Creative Labs Muvo TX Slim MP3 Player 128MB
    (VID:041E PID:4112, must be reformatted back to FAT afterwards to work again!)

  • Creative MuVo TX FM MP3 Player 256MB
    (Must first be formatted to FAT32 before plugging into XBOX) (15604 blocks)

  • Creative Labs Muvo V200 256MB (15604 blocks)

  • DaneElec 256MB - Although it may not work for some, mine worked. Perhaps a different controller was used. I used the 256MB image

  • Dell 64MB (I needed the 64mb image, but 'Write to 32mb' button instead of the 64mb)

  • Dell 128MB Smart USB Flash Memory Key OEM DC420 0DC420

  • Dolphin PowerCAM 2.0 Megapixel Digital Camera FASTUSB-1015

  • Digital Research MP3 player 32MB (5092 blocks)

  • Digitrex DSC-1300 camera, in Mass Storage mode (8MB)

  • EasyDisk 32MB (2014 Blocks)

  • EasyDisk 128MB (7997 Blocks)

  • EXCALIBUR 64MB Flash Drive

  • Feiya Technology Corp. 128MB (aka QPS .m / QPS multimedia usb 2.0 key)

  • Flash/SM Super Talent 2.0 VID&PID: Vid_090c&Pid_1000

  • Freecom USB Stick 32 MB (1998 blocks)

  • FujiFilm FinePix S5000 with 256MB xD card

  • FujiFilm FinePix S5500 with 16MB xD card

  • FujiFilm FinePix A210 with 64MB xD card

  • FujiFilm FinePix A210 with 16MB xD card

  • Fujitsu Siemens 64MB Menustick

  • Fujitsu Siemens SB-512 MemoryBird USB-2.0

  • Gateway 16MB USB Flash Drive (998 blocks)
    Windows sees it as "USB NAND FLASH DISK", VID:0c45 PID:1060

  • Gateway 32MB USB Flash Drive (1998 blocks)
    Windows sees it as "MFG FLASH DRIVER", Vendor=0c45 ProdID=1060

  • GXT Mobile Data Drive - 1GB, 50000 blocks

  • Hama 6-in-1 USB Card Reader (Model-Nr.: 46958) with Lexar Media 16MB CompactFlash (992 blocks)

  • HP Photosmart 315 with 8 MB SanDisk CF Card

  • HP Photosmart C618 Digital Camera

  • IBM 32 MB USB Memory Key (1998 blocks)

  • iCreate Technologies Generic USB Flash Drive (128MB, Ven: 1043, Dev: 8006, 8045 Blocks)

  • Integral 32Mb USB Flash Drive (32Mb 20xx Blocks, Venev 0ea0:6803, lsusb shows "Ours Technology, Inc. OTI-6803 Flash Disk")

  • Iomega Micro Mini USB Drive (64MB, 3995 Blocks)

  • KBGear JamP3 Player (9998 blocks)

  • KingMax USB2.0 Flash Drive 512MB - KS/PD2-512M (31994 blocks)

  • Kingston DataTraveler 32 MB (1998 blocks), 64 MB (3934 blocks), 128 MB & 256 MB (15740 blocks)

  • Kingston DataTraveler 1gb

  • Kingston DataTraveler Elite 2GB (50000 blocks) - must be formatted as Fat32 previously

  • Lexar JumpDrive 2.0 Pro 256 MB (JD256-40-501 RevB) (15740 blocks)

  • Lexar JumpDrive Secure 128 MB (7869 blocks) *Be Careful, you may not be able to get it working in Windows again. Had to RMA.*

  • Lexar JumpDrive Secure 256 MB (15740 blocks)
    *Be Careful, you may not be able to get it working in Windows again. Had to RMA.*

  • Lexar JumpDrive Secure 512 MB (31706 blocks)
    *Be Careful, you may not be able to get it working in Windows again. Had to RMA.*

  • Lexar JumpDrive Secure 1 GB (50000+ blocks) *Be Careful, you may not be able to get it working in Windows again. Had to RMA.*

  • Lexar JumpDrive Sport 64 MB

  • Lexar Jumpdrive Sport 128MB (7776 blocks)

  • Lexar Jumpdrive Sport 256MB Mega-X-Key doesn't recognize, though, the hacked version does.

  • Lexar Jumpdrive Sport 512MB (31706 blocks)
    worked after FAT32 formatting on a Windows 2000 Professional equipped PC.

  • Lexar JumpDrive Sport 1GB (50000+ blocks)

  • Lexar JumpDrive Elite 128MB

  • Lexar Jumpdrive Traveller 128MB JDA128-00-501 (7776 blocks)

  • Lexar Jumpdrive Expression 512MB (31706 blocks)

  • Linksys Instant USB Disk 64 MB (Model USBM64M) (3998 blocks)

  • Logic3 16MB USB (991 blocks)

  • logik mp3-256mb lcd

  • Logik USB MP3 player with audio recorder and lcd-display (256 MB)

  • M-watch 32MB(VID:0EA0 PID:6828)

  • Medion USB 128 MB (7997 blocks)

  • Memorex 64 MB (4030 blocks) & 128 MB

  • Memorex ThumbDrive 256MB (16116 blocks)

  • Memory in Black USB memory pens from 32 to 512 MB, both PQI-based and Opti-based models

  • Micro Advantage 64MB (4008 blocks)

  • Micro Memory USB1.1 256MB (15996 blocks)

  • Minolta DiMAGE F300 with 64MB SD-Card

  • Minolta DiMage XG with 16 MB SD-Card

  • Minolta DiMage Xt with 16 MB SD-Card (Toshiba)

  • M-Systems DiskOnKey 8MB (486 blocks)

  • MyMusix 128MB MP3 Player, must be plugged in before powering on the Xbox (7940 Blocks)

  • Nikon Coolpix (test with 1x 16 MB and 2x 128 MB CF/SD cards)

  • Nikon Coolpix 995 w/128MB SanDisk CompactFlash

  • Ocean 8 MB (490 blocks)

  • OCZ Mini-Kart 2GB (50000+ Blocks)

  • OCZ Rally 1GB Dual Channel USB 2.0 (50000+ Blocks)

  • Olympus C-50 Zoom Digital Camera with any size XD memory (***NOTE*** was tested on a 1.5 and 1.1 and only worked on the 1.5) (15996 blocks on 256mb xD)

  • Olympus D-510 Zoom Digital Camera with 64 MB SmartMedia (3990 blocks)

  • Olympus D-550 Digital Camera with 128 MB SmartMedia (7997 blocks)

  • Olympus D-380 Digital Camera with 64 MB SmartMedia (MechInstaller - Open 8-32MB image and write to 64MB)

  • Olympus Stylus 410 Digital Camera with 256mb XD - for mechinstaller - open 8-32 image a nd write to 256m

  • Oregon Digital MP3 Player (256MB)

  • Oti 32 MB

  • Panasonic 16Mb Secure Digital Card 990 blocks (Comes with most Panasonic Digital Cameras) reformatted and worked with copying from and to using the camera and a RCA Lyra MP3 port

  • Paradigit 128 MB USB2.0 memory stick (aka Apacer memory stick) (7837 blocks)

  • PINE Excalibur 64MB USB Flash Drive (can be reformated for FAT32)

  • PNY 64 MB (3998 blocks)

  • Prolific USB Flash Disk 256 MB (15996 blocks)

  • QPS multimedia (see Feiya Technology Corp. above)

  • RCA Lyra 128Mb Mp3 Player

  • Rundisk 64Mb (into your memory)works only in port3 and you have to wait in the dash menu for 12 seconds before going into memory to fin it, has to format32 first (4164 blocks)

  • Rundisk 128Mb USB 2.0(into your memory)works great has to be format32 first(8099 blocks)

  • RiDATA 128MB USB 2.0 works great. use MechInstaller-1.0-FATX-128MB.img

  • Samsung 64Mb USB disk (4030 blocks)

  • Samsung 512Mb USB disk (31994 blocks)

  • San Disk cruzer mini 32 MB

  • San Disk cruzer micro mini blocks, ID 0781:7104, Rev 0.26, works best in port 3 for some reason)

  • San Disk cruzer micro 256 MB, use 256 MB image, but for me it was necessary to select "Write to 32 MB stick" instead of "Write to 256 MB stick" => how to write to 32 MB stick?? anyone?

  • San Disk Cruzer Micro With Skins USB Flash Drive 256MB, Sandisk partn. SDCZ4-256-E10 15676 Blocks

  • Seitec 128Mb USBBar (7989 blocks)

  • Shintaro 128Mb

  • Shintaro 512Mb USB 2.0 Pocket Disk (31738 blocks) VENDOR ID:067B (Prolific Technology, Inc.); PRODUCT ID:2515 DEVICE:0100 Small, silver/clear plastic case. Comes in blister pack with extension, neck strap and driver CD.

  • Sony 64MB MicroVault (USB 2.0) - 3998 blocks - for MechInstaller, open 8-32MB .img, write to 64MB stick. Has security features, see JetFlash below (?)

  • Sony 256Mb MicroVault (USB2.0). Use the 256Mb Mechinstaller FATX image

  • Sony 256MB MicroVault Tiny (USB 2.0) Model USM256H - Use with the 256MB FATX image.

  • Sony PSP with 32MB PSP memory card

  • Soyo CigarPro2 (USB 2.0, 128MB--the green plastic one) - shows up as "Prolific USB Flash Disk" on WinXP (7997 blocks)

  • Staples branded 64MB thumb drive (3873 blocks) - Available in Staples stores near the cash registers. Open 8-32MB image and write to 64 MB.

  • Staples Relay 256Mb item# 638679 swivel design - (was able to dd 256Mb image to it under Linux and it worked great!)

  • SupportPlus MP3 player DVR 256 MB (15428 blocks)

  • Sweex 128 MB (not "Sweex 128 MB USB 2.0" gives an error on xbox maybe a version without printed "USB 2.0")

  • Swissbit 64 MB (Victorinox USB Swissmemory, knife)

  • Swissbit 128Mo

  • Swissbit 512 MB (Had to slowly insert stick a few times to get it to work. Might be my cables.)

  • Technika 128 MB (Registers fine, formats ok, maybe problem with getting file(s) to stay on it, it renames itself to the name of the file you put on there, might be my problem, though.) (7558 Blocks)

  • TopCom USBPocket Memory 32MB works, but you have to remove the Password protection using your PC first PASSID.EXE (included) has an option to disable it default PW=1111.

  • Transcend JetFlash 64 MB - see below

  • Transcend JetFlash 128 MB - Depending on model, there are 6 JetFlash types and

  • Transcend JetFlash 256 MB - Part No: TS256MJF110

  • TwinMos MobileDisk III 64 MB (3998 Blocks)

  • TwinMos MobileDisk III 128 MB (7993 Blocks)

  • TwinMOS MobileDisk III K24-256 256 MB (15868 Blocks), works with "MechInstaller-1.0-FATX-8MB-to-32MB.img", write to 256MB stick

  • TwinMos Mobile Disk IV K21/M24/K24 128MB (7933 Blocks) - Works fine with all xbox saves and softmod installers, once little switch on side is set to "on"

  • Twinmos Mobile Disk USB 1.1 Pocket Pen Drive 64B (seller p/n XPD64) (Manuf p/n FMD064S) (0ea0:6803,Manuf="USB",Prod="Solid state disk")

  • Typhoon USB Memory Adapter 32 MB (USB 1.1, Art. Nr. 83049, 2014 blocks, for MechInstaller, open "MechInstaller-1.0-FATX-8MB-to-32MB.img", write to 32MB stick)

  • Universal Smart Drive 64MB - used 8mb-32mb image

  • USB UltraDrive 32 MB (1998 blocks)

  • US Modular QuikDrive USB 2.0 256MB (use eraser before putting into xbox) (used 256mb img and chose write to 32mb stick)

  • Vivatar VivaCam MB ("MechInstaller-1.0-FATX-128MB.img")

  • Vivitar VivaCam 4100 4.0 mega pixels (card is reconized but be come permanately un-usable in camara as far as i can tell)

  • Zyon Systems 64MB popdrive - commonly handed out to trade show patrons - must be plugged in before xbox is powered on, otherwise nothing.

  • XONIX 128 mb watch - must be plugged in before xbox is powered on, otherwise nothing.

  • XONIX 256 mb watch - must be plugged in before xbox is powered on

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Let's Begin:
1. Download my .rar in the link above and extract it. Extract the Xplorer Program and the Softmod Installer.

2. Turn on your Xbox and plug your USB into the female end of the cable. Now plug the cable into a controller port. From here go to "Memory." A message will come up that the USB stick has been formatted or it will simply be formatted without the message depending on your kernel/dash

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3. Unplug the USB and go to your computer, plug it in and if a prompt comes up to format the USB do NOT do it. Open up the Softmod Installer .rar Within this archive you will see multiple .rar's You will need to extract the softmod installer.rar and the .rar for the game that you are using. Within each archive the folder hierarchy is as such: UDATA/*Stuff we need to use*

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4. Once you have the folders from both of the UDATA folders from within the aforementioned .rar's, open up Xplorer360 and click drive, open, hard-drive or memcard. Click partition 0 and drag the two folders into the drive like so (I am using Splinter Cell in this example). We're now done with the computer 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5. Now go back to your Xbox and plug in your USB like you did before. Go to memory and move both the Installer and copy both the installer and the game save over to your hard drive. (I use 007's gamesave as an example here).
NOTE: if you only see a "Delete" option and do not see a "Copy" option, just use your D-Pad or Analog Stick on your controller to scroll over to the right and you'll then be able to copy the files over.

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6. After this is done, unplug the USB and cable, we're done with that. Now insert your disc for whatever game you use and load the save game. Be sure you LOAD the mission as opposed to starting a new game or doing a mission select. The screen will flicker, your Xbox's LED's will cycle between green, orange, and red, and the softmod installer menu will come up.

7. Now just follow along with what options to select, when things are loading, just let them load. Some things may take a few seconds or a minute or two, be patient. Once each step is completed loading , move to the next step :
a. Select Backup/Restore Features
b. Select Backup Eeprom
c. Select Back to Main Menu
d. Select Backup/Restore Features
e. Select Create MS Backup (let it load and finish)
f. Select Create C Drive Backup (let it load and finish)
g. Press B to go back to main menu
h. Select Install Single Boot Softmod and then Choose "Standard." (unless you know what you're doing with the other options)
I. Pick either EvoX or UnleashX (I recommend UnleashX)
j. Press Yes

k. Now let the Xbox be sure you meet requirements (it checks your backups you just made in previous steps) Press OK, the check should be very quick.
l. Press Yes to continue with the install. After the install is finished you will be prompted to shut down the console. Select Yes.

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8. Turn your Xbox back on. You will now boot into the dash you chose. In this example I used UnleashX. Your Xbox's LED's should be orange or cycling. This can be changed in system settings of UnleashX:

 

9. I recommend you backup your eeprom to a memory card or flash drive and saving it somewhere in case it somehow gets corrupted. You can do this by navigating to the eeprom.bin by starting at the main menu of UnleashX and scrolling down to File Explorer. Click that and then navigate to the directory in the picture below. From here I believe you can select the file to copy it or you can simply back it up via FTP. If you don't know how there's tons of tutorials around:

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Cable needed

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